![]() ![]() This usually makes things clear as a good waterpump is not cracked, won't spin with your fingers and a cracked or compromised one, becomes blatantly obvious with handling, attempted spinning with your fingers. The typical way, to confirm the waterpump impeller is to remove the thermostat and this allow you access to the impeller. The symptoms, that you are describing has typically been, a failed waterpump or the impeller, is slipping on the metal shaft and this, usually varies, depending on the temperature of the car (it can work somewhat and then spin, as the temps get high or are lower). The fact, that the coolant hoses are warm and the fans kicked on would typically, indicate, that the air is out of the block and the water, has circulated and gotten to the fan sensor, kicking on the fans. The other thing, is the burping and getting air out of the system it is always good to confirm this (a vacuum filling tool is always nice to use, to eliminate all air from the system). Steady red coolant light = engine overheating, pull over and stop engine IMMEDIATELY and do not run until the problem has been identified. I would confirm, that there are no restrictions from the return line, going to the coolant tank (we have seen this before).Īlso, I always post this just a reference, on the various ways the coolant temp light acts:įlashing blue coolant light = fault in the coolant monitoring systemįlashing red coolant light = low on coolant I would to agree with your assessment but I would do some checks first. What do you 1.8 veterans think? Is it most likely the water pump? I have all the parts to do the t-belt and water pump, and will be doing that job next weekend. It was still in tact, but wouldn't have lasted much longer. I recently did the t-belt in my daughter's, and her water pump was badly cracked at 94kmi. The car has been babied its entire life, and hardly driven, other than around town, and even now with my former, it goes 2 miles each way to work, and maybe 30mi each way to her parents house every other weekend, if that. But the current symptoms also act like a blown head gasket. I'm guessing the water pump impeller has broken apart, causing little to no circulation, and the coolant is flash boiling in the cylinder head. Of course at this point, the overheat light was back on. After the fans cycled once or twice, that upper t-stat radiator hose cooled off completely, and the coolant was flash boiling in the coolant tank. However, the small return hose coming into the top of the coolant tank wasn't flowing well and seemed to have quite a bit of air coming through it. Checked hose temps at various locations, including at the heater hoses, and had good, "normal" temps. I replaced the t-stat today with an OEM 87*C version (that's what was in it too), bled the cooling system and eventually got both speeds of the cooling fans, as well as a hot hose from the t-stat. ![]() We took it for a drive around the neighborhood, and I noticed the top radiator hose that comes from the t-stat, wasn't getting hot at all. Coolant level was fine, and there were no leaks. She was a mile or so from home, and drove it home. ![]() The other night, on a short drive, the overheat warning light came on. 1 previous older owner, and my former has had it about almost 2yrs now. A scan should be made of the error codes to pinpoint the problem.My former wife purchased a twin to my daughter's Snap Orange CC, but in Cyber green. Replacing this sensor, which I estimate to cost no more than $20, is still a gamble. The sensor probably is not expensive and should be easy to replace yourself, although you will need to drain the coolant (when cold!) from the radiator petcock into a clean container. The sensor might have a loose connection-maybe just taking the connector off and on several times might help the conductivity. Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (ECT) or wiringĪ-visually inspect ect wiring in engine compartment.ĭepending on which year Bug you have, the sensor could be on the upper radiator pipe, or around the back of the block (where it is on my 2000 NB). My Bentley (print) manual says that for a blue warning light flashing, the probable cause is: I think you were correct in the first place when you suspected the engine coolant temp. Luis, I don't think you will be needing the coolant heaters now where you live. Re: Blue \"Cold Temp\" light on or flashing ![]()
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